5/16/2008

Jig Fishing for Steelhead

Reasoning out when They'll Bite Jigs and when they Won't is incredibly simple

Timothy Kusherets

There’s more to jig fishing than meets the eye. Literally, for the past 20 years I’ve listened to experts talk about why their style of jig fishing technique is better. Most all subscribe to the same basic premise that presenting a jig in a natural drift will produce the most strikes. A lot of emphasis is also placed on the actual jig itself. True enough, but what most fail to point out is why steelhead bite jigs, and why they don’t. Figure this out and you’re ahead of the game.
I’ve come up with four things you can do this winter when jig fishing. They’re all very simple, sometimes so simple that they’re easy not to believe, but they do. I’ve experimented with all of them and had some amazing results.
Discard Bright Bobbers: The bobber telegraphs a strike, and it also tells you when you’re hung up on the river bottom. Because jig fishing for steelhead is primarily a sight bite, most everyone uses brightly colored bobbers. Few people actually put thought into the bobber itself. They grab what’s on the shelf, and away they go. If you look at it from the steelhead’s perspective you might re-think your purchase. Colorful bobbers are great for indicating what’s going on beneath the surface, but they do the same thing for fish — only on top of the surface. This is especially true when the water is clear. Few people espouse that colorful bobbers put fish off the bite; I maintain that in certain conditions they can attract attention away from the jig. When that happens, a steelhead’s attention is divided. Suddenly you’re presented with even tougher odds of hooking a fish. Bobbers come in different shapes, sizes and colors. While some believe that it’s safe to fish bobbers that are natural colored on the bottom half, I would disagree. Even if the bottom of the bobber has a natural color to it, the bobbing action of it will swing from side to side and eventually show off the bright orange or red that crowns the top. Even though it’s slight, it can grab the attention of a fish, which is something you want to avoid. Bobbers that offer a natural profile of simulating debris are ignored by steelhead for obvious reasons. They look like they’re part of the river. Cork bobbers fit this bill perfectly. The only time to use a highly visible bobber is when the waters run turbid and the visibility is non-existent, but even then it’s the exception not the rule. While you lose the high visibility factor with a natural cork bobber I recommend adding something to it so that it’s easily identifiable from a distance. To accomplish that place something small on top. A bright line guide inserted above is usually adequate. You’ll be able to see it as it drifts down river and most importantly, a steelhead’s attention will be focused under the water, and not above it.
Use un-natural looking weights: Split shot is the preferred weight system for jig fishing, however the color and clarity of water determines just how well it works. Ironically, the clearer the water, steelhead are more likely to actually strike at individual split shot simply because of the shape, size, and sometimes color. There are some limited modifications that will stymie the number of times steelhead might try to strike the split shot by moving them closer to the bobber or closer to the jig. However, doing that changes the profile of the drift and may put fish off the bite. The one way to absolutely ensure that each strike is streamlined to the jig is to make the weight system as un-natural as possible. I recommend using pencil lead.
Using a pair of pliers flatten each end of your lead. Then punch holes in both ends of the lead and attach snap swivels. Swivels attached to the weights allow for quick changes on the water. Using swivels also prevents line-twist during the drift and during fights. You can also attach swivels to each jig directly. In either situation you will be able to change terminal gear in seconds saving valuable time for fishing. Another benefit of using pencil lead is that it won’t slide up and down the length of the leader whenever the hook is set. And when the temperature drops and fingers get cold it becomes harder and harder to pinch down the split shot against the leader line. By using pencil lead that problem is completely circumvented giving each person the confidence needed to focus solely on the drifting bobber.
Add scent: Scent is an all-important component. It is the one thing vital to getting a steelhead’s attention that doesn’t involve sound. It’s especially important when waters run turbid and I think it’s safe to say that you shouldn’t leave home without it. While there are many scent variations available they come in two fundamental forms: liquid and gel. Each one has its place. The problem lies in adding scent to marabou jigs and flies. Apply it incorrectly and your jigs are rendered incapable of proper function due to the sticky qualities of scents. Feathers and hairs stick to each other even after they’ve been washed. You can minimize the amount of damage to the sensitive tails and bodies by applying scents to specific parts of each jig.
Pipe-cleaner body jigs are perfect for liquid scents. The odor will adhere without damaging the body, however the drawback is that liquid scents tend to disperse in water much faster than gel. Be prepared to reapply liquid scent fairly often. Only when the feathers or hair of the tail are avoided, gel is an excellent alternative to liquid when using flies and marabou. Adding gel to the head of flies and marabou is all that is needed and even then the amount should be minimal. Again, adding scent to the jig is often overlooked for fear of ruining the action of the jig, however by careful placement these fears can be avoided.
Dress up jigs: Without getting into a discussion about what jig colors are best, I can tell you how to get the attention of lethargic winter steelhead. Oftentimes the only difference between a person with a fish on the hook versus one without is a good set of ‘eyes’. Eyes on the head of a jig can make all the difference. Sure there are other factors that come into play, but it really can come down to something as simple as placing a set of eyes on your jigs. I’ve seen it happen countless times. If you’re fishing a run that looks fishy or you know has fish in it, and you’re coming up fishless, consider using a permanent marker on your jigs. (This means you’ll have to carry it with you in the field). A set of small black eyes can get the attention from steelhead especially when the barometric pressure suddenly falls. Carefully dot the sides of the jig head in line with the shank and the hook’s eye. Even in the absence of scent I’ve seen this little trick work and it doesn’t matter the style of jig. The shape of the head means nothing to a steelhead when it has a pair of eyes on it. Compare two jigs next to each other and you’ll see how much more lifelike it becomes with a pair of black dots on the head.
The guy who showed me this tidbit swore that it was the only thing that stood between a good and bad day of fishing. The trick was so easy it was scary and that is probably the reason why more steelhead fishermen probably don’t know about it. It is too easy to believe, which is what can be said about these four tips. They’re just too easy to believe, but believe it, they’re often the difference in catchingand not catching fish.