Fishing Technique
Proper Wading
Take the time to get familiar
with these various wading techniques and you won’t end up in the
river head under feet and increase amounts of fish on the hook.
Timothy Kusherets
Did you know that there are methods to wading other than
plunking one foot in front of the other? It seems like a silly question
to ask but you’d be surprised how many anglers don’t know
how to properly do it. Successful wading is based on how it’s
done, where it’s done, and the width of the gait dictates whether
or not there’ll be fish on the hook. Not knowing how to wade in
streams, rivers, and lakes can spook fish out of a good fishing hole
for an entire day. Learning how to wade can actually teach you to be
able to walk right up on fish close enough to grab them by the tail.
One of the more important aspects of wading is to consider safety.
The act of wading is really more art than science. There are fundamental
things to consider when walking in water, especially if it’s water
that is unfamiliar. Take the time to get familiar with these various
wading techniques and you won’t end up in the river head under
feet and increase amounts of fish on the hook.
Up-stream Wading
Up-stream wading is without a doubt the hardest way to wade, and perhaps
the most dangerous. In almost all cases, anglers who opt to use this
method are already in the water to the maximum depth waders will allow.
Wading upstream should be done in half steps. Whatever your normal gait
while wading straight and downriver is it should be cut in half when
wading upstream. Outwardly it is obvious that taking reduced steps is
a safety precaution, but there is another reason too. Taking smaller
steps ensures that holding fish do not get spooked by the increased
wake created by your legs in the water. Fish can sense the movements
of fishermen using their lateral lines on the sides of their bodies
as they move back and forth (side to side). Increased sound means that
fish will be able to hear you better. Taking the time to take half-steps
will keep fish on the bite while not doing it will keep them off for
hours on end.
Downstream
Every step downstream is easier, faster, and can be more dangerous
if extra time is not taken. As a step is taken, make sure to anchor
one foot solidly before taking another. Having a firm foothold in the
water is crucial to prevent slipping.
When a fish is flailing about on the end of the line take half-steps
downstream and begin to wade backwards. As you wade backwards, constant
tension on the rod will bring fighting fish with you so it’s not
necessary to reel at any time. Only when you’ve gotten a firm
foothold on or near the bank should you stop wading downstream before
continuing to battle a hooked fish.
Side-Step Wading
It’s like moving as a crab does…side-to-side.
Even while fighting a fish it’s best to move with the current
than against it. Note how my feet shuffle too and fro without out facing
directly into the current. It is the same kind of step regardless of
water depth. Movement like this also has the byproduct of keeping fish
on the bite by diminishing sounds of splashing.
Taking a side step to go up and downriver is one of the
best ways to wade. It keeps the wakes from legs very low and quiet,
and the side steps are much safer than any other step while wading.
Sidestep wading is done to probe waters where fishing pressure has put
fish off the bite. When it’s in between fishing season sidestepping
produces fish on stretches of water where there are no visible holding
areas for fish to gravitate towards.
Look how the current crashes into the side of the
legs here. Wading with side steps downriver greatly decreases the amount
of colliding water thus making each step quieter than would otherwise
be heard by holding fish. The wading technique keeps fish on the bite
as you probe water ferreting out strikes.
Half-step Wading
Here I’m wading across some high and turbid
water using the half-step wading method. The smooth surface of the river
is deceivingly fast. The color of the water is a dark green clay texture
with zero visibility. This wading scenario warranted moving through
the river taking half steps the entire width of it. Using a normal to
large gait would risk losing the necessary foothold to get across the
river. Any other wading method here and I'm off into the drink.
It’s best to take half-steps when in high, turbid, and unfamiliar
water. Half-steps are taken as a measure of precaution that aids in
keeping fish on the bite. This type of wading technique should always
be done when waders do not have felt soles on the boots of waders. While
it’s entirely possible to fish waters that don’t have algae
growing in them, it is not reasonable to expect the substrate will not
have other slippery components to them.
Felt
About Hip Waders
Most of the time that hip-waders are sold they do not come with felt
attached to the soles. There are easy kits that are specifically designed
to fit hip-waders and should be applied to any boots that are going
to be used in freshwater systems. I’ve have found that fishing
in the marine environment does not require constant vigilance when it
comes to slipping, outside of anomalous substrates like clay-mud and
giant deposits of kelp beds, which will never be experienced in freshwater.
Chest-waders have two schools of thought that come with them: Some boots
have waders already adhered to the soles, while others don’t have
them at all, but kits that are sold for hip-waders can be attached to
them. More often than not, veteran fishermen who frequent glacially
fed systems automatically assume that they should purchase chest-waders
with felt soles since being out in wilderness areas offer no chance
for drying up near stores that other anglers will enjoy if they slip
in the water.
Felt soles always start out as pristine white, but they don’t
stay that way for long. Take the time to wash felt soles after each
fishing trip; wash them out in the driveway with a hose and then hang
up the waders upside down for them to dry. Boots that are separate from
chest-waders should be turned upside down to dry. Don’t worry
about the gray to green colors that soles will turn into, they are still
very functional, and so long as they are cleaned routinely will last
for many years.
Hard sole Wading Boots
There are very few locations that I would recommend fishing with just
hard sole boots. This type of boot bottom has more risks associated
with them than any other kind; however, there is a way to wade with
them without making them a hazard.
Hard sole boots should have a deep tread on them to ensure that mud
and gravel that get between the tread will keep good grips for wading
fishermen. Rather that lifting each leg to wade, try sliding them over
boulders, rocks, and gravel. There is no need to take such precautions
with mud and pebbles. The larger rocks are the easier it is to “slide”
boots over them. When settling into fish a hold make sure that you force
both sides of each foot into tight places that will not give as you
fish. After the hookup, wade backwards while still sliding your feet.
Get to the bank and continue to fight the fish.
These really are the best ways to use this type of sole under most conditions.
There are some places where this kind of boot sole will not have a problem,
but when anglers want to move about to find better holds, this kind
of boot can be a hindrance.
Spike Wading Boots
Spikes on the bottoms of waders are erfect for winter, snow, and ice.
Spikes are sold separate from all waders. They’re placed on the
bottom of boots and held in place with straps. These offer the ability
to walk on any surface for fishing conditions, but are almost exclusively
worn during snow and icy conditions. Most sporting goods stores offer
these but if they’re not in the store you go to try a Ski shop.
They’ll have a lot of gear that anglers can use right along with
spikes.
Poles & Branches
Wading with Poles and/or Branches
This angler, who is using neoprene chest waders, knows
the value of wading with a pole even during bright sunny days. Algae
grow on virtually any substrate that does not have regular significant
water current flowing over it. The slippery nature of algae covered
rocks makes it a particular hazard for wading anglers who don’t
know the area. The portable nature of almost all wading poles makes
it perfect for fishing in water knee-deep or higher. Put a tether on
it and it will simply float by your side as you fish. Ironically, the
pull of any fighting fish will give you the balance needed to get back
to the bank or beach the same as would be had with wading using the
pole.
Poles and branches are used as a wading staff where waters run fast,
deep, and with zero visibility. Each pole should range between four
and six feet long; some poles are collapsible for easy transport and
storage. They can be purchased in sporting goods stores. When they cannot
be found, Ski shops have ski poles that can be purchased individually
and work great as poles. Anglers that intend to hike for extended portions
of the day can just break off a branch to a nearby tree. It’s
a bad idea to use fallen branches since they tend to break easy after
being dead for such a long time. Branches for poles don’t need
to be thick they just have to be strong enough to probe water for the
duration of the day.
Fishing unfamiliar water is the best time to use one of these. With
a pole in hand, walk extra slow and make sure that the pole or branch
is submerged in front of you all the time for ever step taken. Never
take a step before testing out the water above or below where you have
not been; treat it like a third leg and have it out in front of you
at all times and there won’t be any accidents of falling in the
river.
© Timothy Kusherets 2008/10 Copyrighted
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